The 7 Majors

Scapada at the top of the Alps

But what exactly are the 7 Majors ? Nothing less than seven hors catégorie passes, all perched at over 2000 meters in the Southern Alps, between France and Italy. Our adventure, in order : Bonette (2715 m), Vars (2108 m), Izoard (2360 m), Agnel (2744 m), Sampeyre (2284 m), Fauniera (2481 m), and Lombarde (2350 m). While some try to complete this journey in 24 hours, for us, it will be over three days. Long enough to fully enjoy it and have very busy days.

Day 1: Bonette (2715 m) + Vars (2108 m)

145 km, 3850 D+

Fresh start from Isola to directly attack the Bonette, the highest road pass in Europe. Nothing better to set the tone. At 9am, we join the road that leads to Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée, at the foot of the pass. Still light on this first climb, we meet Roger, a local who, in good weather, treats himself to the Bonette once a week. Halfway, we decide to take a break in a refuge to enjoy a coffee and a huge slice of cake, just to remind ourselves that, after all, we are also on vacation.

Once full, we set off again and overtake a few cyclists we had seen during our break. The summit is approaching, and the view is breathtaking. It's always a shock to find yourself at the top of the Bonette, surrounded by these immense mountains. Souvenir photo, a few exchanges with other cyclists, then we head downhill, our eyes filled with lakes, rivers and waterfalls. And then, two bikepackers shout "Massacan, Massacan" at us ! Needless to say, it gives us a boost.

At the end of the descent, stop at the local snack bar before tackling Vars. A croque-madame for me, an American sandwich for Matt. Two grenadines and four coffees later, we're off again to climb while still digesting, not the brightest idea. Vars is less visually appealing, but still just as exhausting. At the top, we collapse into an old-fashioned bar, the Igloo Varsin, and share a few drinks with cyclists who are finishing their crossing of France.

After a quick descent, we arrive in Briançon, but my reservation for the night is in Puy-Saint-Pierre… another 500 meters of altitude difference. Fortunately, Catherine's warm welcome and a generous meal await us.

Day 2: Izoard (2360 m) + Agnello (2744 m) + Sampeyre (2284 m)

128 km, 4010 D+

We get up with very heavy legs, as if each movement weighed a ton. Same outfit as yesterday, we drag ourselves to Briançon for breakfast at the bakery, pastries, sandwiches and pizzas, our faithful allies. It is barely 9am when we start the ascent of the Izoard. Some are already descending at full speed, and a group on longboards crosses the road, eyes fixed on the asphalt, going full throttle on the slope. The climb is long, and I am not in great shape. First coffee at the side of the road, just so as not to get too distracted, because this pass is magical, especially seen from the other side.

The descent is irregular and almost dizzying, but what a beauty ! Then, it's on to the Col d'Agnel. We know in advance that it's going to be long, but fortunately less steep than on the Italian side. The road is splendid, but the motorbikes spoil the atmosphere a little. I love sharing the road, but here, we don't all have the same perspective on the climb. At the top, it's a hustle and bustle between cars, motorbikes and cyclists. A little old lady sells drinks, sweets, and even coffee. Italy welcomes us with its famous hubbub.

On the way down, we come across Paula, the marmot. Yes, the same one we saw two years ago. We stop, almost moved to find this little piece of nature so familiar. Then, we head to Pontechianale for an ice cream. The desire to taste all the flavors tempts us, but there is still a big chunk to swallow : the Sampeyre pass.

It is 3pm, and the July sun is well established. The road is narrow, bumpy, a real paradise for us. The vegetation is dense and the air is heavy. The percentage remains under 10%, but Italy begins here, with its isolated and wild roads. 5 km from the summit, a short break : we devour what we have left, including a slice of pizza, while carefully keeping a pain au chocolat for the summit. Up there, barely a few vans and hikers ; it is calm, almost deserted. A wild and peaceful pass, far from the hustle and bustle, just as we like it.

The sun sets slowly, and we begin the descent towards the Maira valley. That moment when the light changes and everything seems softer.

Day 3: Fauniera (2511 m) + Lombarda (2350 m)

106 km, 3190 D+

Last day. We are excited but sad to see this adventure come to an end. We would like to stay one more day to flirt with the summits, to ride on these small Italian roads. They seduce us with their steep percentages, their tight turns, their cool rivers where we dip our tired feet. And then there are the marmots whistling, reminding us that we are high, really high. The refuges are also warm and gourmet, the villages full of life, an old France that has disappeared that we find on the other side of the border.

This morning, the excitement is at its peak. The Fauniera awaits us, a legendary pass. We had already brushed against it during a gravel trip to Gardetta. Today, we enter the Maira valley, even wilder than we remembered. On the road, we pass a few cows and sheep ; the climb is gentle, almost friendly, until the last few kilometers, where the slope becomes steeper. We finally make out the summit. The Pantani pass ! The last bend is moving. We are at the end of the world, the road turns into a track, and we ride a few hundred meters on gravel before finding the asphalt again. We cross this grandiose setting, overwhelmed by the beauty of the landscape around us (tears of joy).

Alone in the world on this small winding road, we are surrounded by mountains. The 360-degree view takes our breath away. Then come the pastures, a few farms, and this refuge where we had taken shelter from the rain last time. Today, we enjoy the terrace, our feet in the grass. Matt enjoys a polenta, I have fresh pasta. One last EstaThé to top it all off. It's paradise, really.

To finish this adventure, there is still the Lombarde. More than 20 km at an average of 7%. We climb slowly, fatigue is felt, but we hold on. Halfway, we come across a river : impossible to resist. We take out some salty biscuits and sweets, we splash ourselves with fresh water and we rest for a few minutes on the rocks.

As we get back in the saddle, it's as if we've gained life points to face the last kilometers. The summit is approaching, and we're ready to tackle the last pass of this unforgettable journey...